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Tuesday, December 13, 2005

After Aconcagua Ascent: The Journey of my 7 summits

POST ACONCAGUA
After Aconcagua ascent (Feb 8), I still could not get any financial support from anywhere expand from a band of friends. Though I had contemplated the diea of "Fastest 7 summits", my fincial constraints forced me to compromises for - 7 summits endeavor and hopefully, The First Indian.

I wanted to attempt Mt. Denali (Mc Kinley) between June/July which will be my 3rd among 7 summits. Denali 6194m, is highest mountain of N.America situated in the "Alaska Range". THis is notorious for hidden crevases. I had paid registered myself with American Alpine Institute, A company which offeres guided expedtions to Denali. I wanted to enhance my mountaineering skills, so I approached(March 3rd week) Nehru Institute of Mounatineering (NIM) Uttar Kashi for undertaking Advance Mountaineering Course. Those who acquire "A" grade in "Basic Mountaineering Course" are eligible for this. I am eligible. But I did this course from "Directorate of Mountaineering and Allied Sports", Manali.
I approached NIM Principal Col Ashok Abbey requesting him to accommodate me for advance course. He said they don't accept people who had done basic from DMAS Manali. His opinion was that the experience of Basic Mountaineering course is sufficient to attempt Mt.Denali the tallest of N.America located in Alaska. I wonder why at all 'Advance Mountaineering courses ' are conducted Indian Mountaineering Institutes.

After this, in the 1st week of April, I met Capt. M.S. Kohli, Leader of First Indian Successful Everest Expedition 1965. He is one of the living legends in mountaineering. Instrumental in initiating several adventure activities in India and abroad. He was impressed at my SOLO ascent of Acacagua. He readily consented to write a letter recommending support from Ministry of Sprots, Govt. Of India, Inidian Mountaineering Foundation (I.M.F.) and Chief Minister of Andhra Pradesh. I approached Ministry of Sprots, Youth affiars. Mrs. Vandana who looks after Youth Affairs under which Adventure sports/activities fall informed me that, Ministry of Sports doesn't support any ting outside India. My immediate reaction was - Then how do we Indians aspire for achieving significant/big? What is it all about - we Indians should dream big/ make our mark in the world? It was a very disappointing and demoralising experience.

Then, I went to IMF(Indian Mountaineering Foundation), which is an apex organization in India to support mountaineering activities. The IMF director said - I am impressed with your Cv and would like to keep a copy with himself. But said, we can't support your activity. Well, should feel elated that I won an admirer of my CV or feel sad at he response from IMF Director!?

I have explained this to Capt. M.S. Kohli. He could do nothing. I asked him to help me with visa for US. Th US Embassy consular section didn't bother to check any of the docs.. Capt. Kohli letter also didn't make any difference. I neither got visa for US nor was I able to get my money, that I paid towards Mt. Denali ascent back from American Alpine Institute.This was in the month of march(March 16). Then, I started for Gomukh alone. I forgot my troubles and enjoyed amidst the Himalayas. In Dharali I met a German climber. She attempted Mt. Elbrus, Russia in Winer with her boy friend. Unfortunately her boy friend had mihap and lost his life. Both of us, decided to trek upto Gomukh. There were a few avalanches between "Dharali" village and Gangotri, We gingerly crossed them and reached Gangotri. And then Gomukh. It was one of my very enjoyable treks. I prayed at Gomukh- "Gangotri maa, please give me the physical strength and solve my financial probs". I didn' know if my prayers were heard. But I had immense faith that they were.

After this, in the 2nd week of April (13th Apil) I left for Everest Base Camp Trek along with Sidhu, my IIM C batch mate and friend. I also wanted to attempt Island Peak(Imja Tse 6189m). We went upto Island peak base camp. I didn't climb as I didn't get permits. I tried to join one of the teams attempting.. But there weren't any vacancies. We had 10 days of memorable adventure whic satiated quest for Adventure, thrill and challenge.

In May: I trekked alone to Guichala. It didn't disappoint my adventure spirit.
I approached the alumni of IIM Calcutta to support my 7 summits endeavor. Prof. Anup sinha introduced me to Mr. Debasis Gupta. He too expressed intense enthu and the words of proudness flowed. I explained that I would like to attempt - "Fastest 7 summits". I said that I'll raise funds for Eevrest and you help me with raising remaining funds.
He told that, They will help me to open a bank account but I will have to put my plea personally to the alumni. This was in the month of August. If I have to go for Fastest 7 summits. I should leave India latest by December. I don't have any funds in my bank even in August. I complied to take the risk. Then in the last week of August, I was still following up so as to "create the account". And later I was unable to reach Mr. Debasis Gupta on his phone. September came. And There was no word of initiative from them to support but for creating Bank account. I can't rely on this and gave up! I was very determined to go for Everest and I couldn't give it up at anycost!
And my RIT batchmates educated me that: it's my own personal interest to do the 7summits. Good learning.

But fortunately, Samir kumar, Sidhu, Santhosh, Prashant Reddy and Srinija have joined me. We still didn't had funds for attempting Everest. We were conceiving several ideas and trying hard to raise funds. We were falling short of approx. 10,000 $. I decided to take debt from somebody and go for Everest.
My school (Sainik School) senior Lt. Uday Bhaskar lost his life on Everest near south col. He was with 1985 Indian Army Everest Expedition. six of them go stuck up in a snow storm in the death zone above 26,000ft. All of them succumbed to this tragediy. His statue was inaugurated in 1986 in our school. I was in my 7 class then. We grew up under his statute. And It is a feeling of proud for me to accomplish what my senor has set forward to achieve. I wanted to take my school flag, and his mementoes to the summit of Everest.

I mailed to my Sainik School Korukonda Alumni fondly appellated as "Saikorians" in the 2nd week of Septmber. I have also menioned that I am in need of financial support. After Ministry of Sports, IMF and IIM alumni experience. I didn't have much hopes fro my "saikorian" group also. But I knew we share very rare comradeship. I wanted to visit home so I have made plans to visit M.Uday Bhaskar Rao's brothers and my school.

In the last week of September I started for home and the news said that Adnhra was in the middle of Hurricane. I saw the villages devastated near Rajamandri while passing through the train. I became apprehensive about my village. It's on the bank of "Pinakini" River.

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9 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Complimenti MISSION 7 SUMMITS per il post riguardante After Aconcagua Ascent: The Journey of my 7 summits . Volevo sapere se puoi dare uno sguardo al mio sito che parla di risultati scommesse e dirmi come ti sembra. Se ti interessa l'argomento risultati scommesse non puoi trovare di meglio!

8:35 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Bello questo post riguardo a After Aconcagua Ascent: The Journey of my 7 summits , mi raccomando MISSION 7 SUMMITS , cerca di tenere aggiornato questo blog che sembra uno dei pochi interessanti! Vorrei segnalarti il mio sito che parla di risultati scommesse . Solo le migliori informazioni inerenti a risultati scommesse !

9:45 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Bello questo post riguardo a After Aconcagua Ascent: The Journey of my 7 summits , mi raccomando MISSION 7 SUMMITS , cerca di tenere aggiornato questo blog che sembra uno dei pochi interessanti! Vorrei segnalarti il mio sito che parla di scommesse online . Solo le migliori informazioni inerenti alle scommesse online !

4:35 AM  
Blogger ~*. D E E P A .* ~ said...

Dropped in from Binu's blog ..

Whoa .. really admire ut spirit ...

bye .. see you :)

8:56 PM  
Blogger Aviral said...

Hi Malli,
We are all proud of you and we all know that you are going to make it...

All the best for your mission

Aviral

11:55 PM  
Blogger Shekhar said...

Hello. I'm doing my MBA from the Nirma Institute of Management, Ahmedabad. I was going through news reports about you and stumbled upon your website and your blog. How come you blog no more? And please tell us what is new in your life.

11:50 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

great India

8:30 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Uncompromising spirit of - Possess Courage to follow your heart!

-

8:32 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Uncompromising spirit of - Possess Courage to follow your heart!

- Indian

8:32 PM  

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