ACONCAGUA SUMMIT DAY - FEBRUARY.8, 2005

Feb 8, Tuesday: SUMMIT DAY!

The couple woke up around 4AM and started their preparations for summit. I laid inside sleeping bag and tried to track their progress closing my eyes. They moved out by 6AM I guess. I kept telling myself not to worry and it’s feasible to do the summit even by starting at 10:00AM and I needed only 6hrs window. In between I kept peeping out of sleeping bag and observed day light. By 8 it was bright but cold. I crawled out of sleeping bag by 8am.

I started warming my socks, boots for nearly 30 minutes. Then I tried making water from the snow. I had some chocolates and tried eating the food that I made. I hardly had a few spoons before I gave up. By the time I am done with my preps for summit push It was nearly 9AM and seemed to be bright enough.

I took Indian flag, the Gangotri ma photo, chocolates and water bottle inside the mini day sack that I carried. I prayed god and left the Berlin huts hoping for a less detrimental cold. It was still very cold and I could feel the itching in my fingers and feet. I kept moving them inside the boots and gloves. I saw that the upper shoulders above Berlin were reflected with sun light. I thought if I reached there I am in the sun light and will be saved from Frost bite. I kept walking at a slow, steady and comfortable pace. I knew I just have to walk off from the camp and I would not stop until the summit.

I was experiencing bitter cold but it was not injurious. I kept walking up the white rocks. It was not very steep but a winding path upwards. I reached Indepencia in about 2 hrs. There was a broken hut there. There was Malaysian team having their rest or food at this place. I said hi to them and took right turn to cross the snow field there. I carefully started walking up on the snow patch. Then it was the traverse. There were chilly winds along the traverse. I didn’t feel any difficulty and was a bit curious inside myself about the notorious Canaleta. It was getting very cold with the chilly winds along the traverse. Though the summit was visible it was still a long way.

There was “Lithuania” team also trying for the summit. I had come in contact with the Lady of Lithuania team for the first along the traverse. We kept walking close. Then we reached the foot of Canaleta at 1:15PM. There were two people in front of us. They were trying to find the way along the Canaleta. Everyone knows about its difficulty. There was a big snow patch in the right side. I avoided that and walked just below it towards summit. I thought it’s another 2 hours for me to the summit and I was filled with the feeling of euphoria. I am going to finish two of my seven summits mission. I kept saying myself that two down and five to go.

Soon I realized how frustrating it is walking in the Canaleta. Every step that I took started sliding. After one hour I was struggling myself to walk continuously for five meters! I had to sum up in all my determination to cover a distance of five meters. Counting steps too didn’t help. I looked up summit appeared very near. But I was not sure if that’s going to end there. I observed the fellow climbers. They too were busy in their labor. I saw the Lithuania lady. She found a way along the Canaleta and seemed to handle better than me.

I kept walking along those big and small rocks. The two hours time that I kept elapsed and I was still in the Canaleta always appearing close to summit but climbing forever.

The doubt slowly started returning into my heart. Am I going to make it?

Will I faint in between? I kept close watch on my breath. I made it uniform and made up my mind to fight it. I stopped searching for a path and started climbing straight up along the rocks. Now I am on my four limbs. I crawled at some points and did rock climbing on some pitches. Finally I entered the area of big rocks just below the summit. It’s a patch slightly to the south of main summit. They were firm but posed a little difficulty. But I was comfortable scrambling over these rocks than handling the slippery loose rocks. I kept pushing up. After a few minutes I saw the Lithuania leader shouting that it’s another 5 minutes and pointed a snow patch just below the summit. To me it appeared too long so I kept pushing myself up the rocks and soon reached the top. I thought I reached summit.

I didn’t see an Alumnium Cross but a big Iron rod kind of thing! So this is not the summit. I just laid there.

Then I looked to my left. I saw the Lithuania team smiling. It’s just a minute walk from there to the real summit. I walked to them and laid beside the Aluminium Cross. It was 4:25P.M.

I smugly told my self 2 down 5 to go. And that was real!

I thought about friends and my mission. I felt happy and content to have achieved what I said as possible.

So I made it - the First Indian Solo climb of Aconcagua. I can say it as a First Indian unguided expedition. For one is not truly alone.

Slowly the achievement started sinking in and tears started to flow from the corner of my eyes.

I felt shy to let tears drop in front of people. I wiped them off and sat there. I sauntered on the summit. It is spacious. I took the pictures of the surroundings. Lithuania leader took my picture. I took pictures with Indian flag.

I thanked god and sat in silence for some time. Then all of us moved to descend. I was a little exhausted and feeling hungry too. So, I was not descending at my usual speed. I descended the pitches carefully and was taking rest in between. It was not an easy descend too. I was careful not to hurt myself and kept telling my self that It’s not over until I reach safely to the camp. Soon I finished Canaleta and then entered the traverse pitch. I overtook all of the Lithuania team. It seems they started for the summit at about 6:30AM. I felt happy that with my climbing standards I could see them talking with respect about India.

I soon crossed the traverse pitch and reached Independencia. I was feeling very comfortable and some how felt very energetic. I started descending quickly. Soon I was at white rocks. It’s possible to lose route from here. I kept walking with carefully noting the direction of Nido. I also kept observing the three huts at Berlin. I reached the cmap safely and was very happy.

I crawled into the hut and kept myself warming. I ate some chocolates and drank water. I laid in the sleeping bag. I looked at the time, it was 6:20PM.

Mountain Rangers had come at about 7:30PM. We greeted each other. I learnt that one climber was missing and they were searching for him. Then I could relate the presence of a mini aeroplane flying around 5:00PM when I was descending the Canaleta. We kept chatting inside the tent. Then after some time two porters had joined us. Then there was another English man who had come from Nido. We took some pictures. I talked to Aconcagua Adventures company and informed them to send porters to carry my bag from Berlin to base camp next day. I went to sleep around 10:00PM.