Leaving for Aconcagua Solo Attempt

Hi all,

I think, I am ready for making on a solo attempt on Aconcagua. I'm impressed at my rucksack packing. I have my flight at 1AM, will reach Milan around 6AM, next flight for Buenos Aires at 21:45hrs. I will be in Mendoza by 30th Jan. I Will take permits on 30/31 and start climbing from 1st Feb.

I would like to try it without a guide and a porter. I will inform from Mendoza, Argentina around 10th of Feb about the status..

. . . Malli

ONE DOWN, SIX to GO!

Kilimanjaro , uhuru peak 5895 summited at 7am local (9:30AM, Indian) Jan 15: I spent time with the IIT B friends with whom I had attended Basic mountaineering course. They gave me a warm send off with the touching notes... and reminders of learning from BMC. I boarded Euthiopia Airlines at about mid night 12. I reached Addis Ababa at 3:15AM, local time and learnt that my connecting flight has left. So I was put up in Bole international hotel. I dumped my baggage and went out for a walk in the drizzle. I boarded the flight for Kilimanjaro at 12:50 PM, It was 2 hrs flight to Kilimanjaro from Addis Ababa. I saw the Kilimanjaro peak in clouds from the plane window. Jan16: Reached Springlands Hotel in Moshi town and was an hours distance from the foot of Africa's highest peak. I learnt that the company with which I booked the tour had swindled me. I talked with the Zara Adventures and arranged for the Climb from Jan17. I booked for 6days climb, through Umbwe route. Many eye brows rose when I mentioned this route! Jan17: I was introduced to my climbing guide, Mr.Dickson. He expressed his concern about me. I said I would take care of myself. I had quick swim in the pool and started for Umbwe entrance. We started our trek by 2PM from the dense rain forest of Kilimanjao. We reached Umbwe Cave, 2747m the First camp on mountain by 6PM. I was at an altitude of Dharali, (a hamlet near "Gangotri" in India) , I thought. Jan18: Umbwe Cave - Barranco (3950m) We trekked out of the forest, It was not steep as previous day, but we had to handle a 15ft rock face. There were good holds. Soon the alpine zone started, We could see "Shira" ridge and "Meru" in distance. We reached Barranco in 4hrs. There were exotic plants and a few birds. Here those coming from Machermo route join with Umbwe route. It felt like a caravan. I could see Uhuru peak very close. I said to guide that I want to attempt the summit the next night. Jan19: Barranco - Barafu(4600m) There is a big wall that had to be climbed after barranco, then descend, it's a climb and descend for a few more times. We reached "Karanga" huts in tow hours. Then had snacks and water. There are buffalo bones displayed here. It seems they were 10yrs old. From Karanga the gradient reduces but the altitude takes. We started at about 8:30AM and reached Barafu by 1:15noon. I thought We were slightly above Tapovan(4450m) in Gangotri region. But I was feeling slight head ache due to quick ascent. Jan20: 1:15 Started for the summit with guide. After one hour I started vomiting. I kept walking, concentrating on breath and legs. It was very cold, if I stop I feared frostbite & hypothermia. I remembered my friends and what hopes they had for me. I sat there and looked up at the stream of of torches inching their way up the mountain. There were good number of people who had started at 12:00. We reached them and overtook them. It was just going up and up. I stopped thinking about slope and was concerned only of my next step and breath. I REACHED THE STELLA POINT AND SOON THE SUMMIT BY 7AM. THE SIGHT OF SUN WAS A RELIEF. started for the descent soon. We were at Barafu huts by 8:45AM. I took rest until 12:00. I was feeling relieved that I made my first summit. By 2PM we descended to "Mweka", 3100m. It was a beautiful camp site. My vomiting didn't stop. I was asked if I wanted to stay, I said I can descend and want to make it to the entrance. We walked thru the dense forest of "Mweka" in the east side of mountain. Reached the park entrance by 4:30Pm and soon headed for the Springlands hotel. We reached the hotel by 5:30PM. I quickly completed the formalities and enjoyed swim. I didn't feel exhausted though I haven't eaten almost any thing. Jan 21,22 : Chilling out in the hotel, occassionally went into nearby fields. I was under strict observation for I used to slip out alone intoforests. Jan23: Boarded flight from Kilimanjaro for Addis ababa at 19:20hrs. >>>>> Thank you all, subbu, Nishant, sima, khericha, souvik, peeyush, prasad, paras, partha 7 summits team.. and all the gutchians. We have 6 to go now!

7 SUMMITS PROGRESS

Travel Arrangements:

I tried hard with Thomas cook to get my air ticket for Argentina. I was delayed for a complete 45 days promising all the time to give a best fare. Finally I thought of doing it on my own and approached “Globe travels”, Travel service and “tashi travels” all travel companies in Calcutta. Nobody seemed aware of these places and I ended up educating them about different routes of flying and visa requirements for those countries. Finally I was able to purchase my tickets from “Coromandel Travels”. I felt relived that I had finished one task of my preparation. I bought tickets by Dec 18.

I was co-ordinating my US friends (Subbu, Nishant, Khericha, Souvik, Badri, Partha and others) for purchasing my mountaineering equipment.That’s one hell of an adventure, which I would request the US team write down!I received equipment sent by prasad VTSV fro B’lore as my Christmas gift.
I was at IIM C and was thrilled at my tent, sleeping bag and Himalayan suit. They were the best equipment. I tested the tent pitching it in the IIM C garden. I was excited and happy.


VISAS

I left Delhi on 26th to arrange for my Visas. I planned to make 3 summit attempts, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua and Kosciuszko. I need to get Tanzania, Argentina and Australia visas. I met CK Mohan my RIT batch mate in Delhi on 27th, Monday.
Dec 27(Mon): Went to supriya Vihar for argentina Embassey and learnt that it shifted to Ananda Niketan. Then we went to Basant Vihar for Tanzania embassy. Their working hours were 10-12AM. We were late. We learnt the visa reuirements.

Dec28(Tue): Submitted docs for Tanzania embassy. Before that we went oto Argentina embassy. I was disappointed at the very unfriendly nature of the attendant. My instincts told me that it will not be easy.

Dec29(wed): Received Tanzania visa, I was very happy. CK and I celebrated with a Nescafe coffee.
CK and I went to Connaught place. He went on a shopping spree. Then I bade adieu to him for he was leaving for Rajasthan.

Dec30(Thu):
I submitted my docs at Argentina Embassy. I was asked to collect on Jan5. Long wait and could not d any thing.
Peeyush Bajpai, contacted me and I shifted to his flat in Malviya Nagar. We met for the first time after RIT. He was in recognizable shape and enjoyed his hospitality both at work and home. He was very helpful.

Dec 31(Fri):
Went to Peeyush’s office. I was greeted with a very affectionate reception.
Jan1 (sat):
I was with Peeyush. Enjoying his company.
Jan2: Sun day
Jan3: Monday
Jan4: Went to Argentina Embassy and gave the covering letter. Not so happy.
Jan5(Wed): got the Argentina Visa stamping. I was given transit visa. He didn’t even tell me that I was given a transit visa. What a frustrating feeling. I have 15days to climb this 7000m peak.
First Indian Solo Aconcagua attempt!! I am feeling every kind of hurdle possible on my solo journey. It’s truly solo. I had booked my airtickets. I got my visa personally. Now I made my climbing plan and going there.I had received help from RIT friends. Incredible selfless act indeed!!

Jan5(wed): I went to Austalia TT Services help office in Jhandewala extn. I was told that Australia visa takes 6-7 days for stamping. I didn’t had those many working days before my travel to Mumbai and Kilimanjaro from there.
So forced to postpone this for Feb.
The Argentina visa stamping had lot of impact on my travel and climbing plans which I had to replan and make changes accordingly.

It’s hell a lot of an adventure!! The stories of mountaineers inspired me to not to lose heart and focus on what my goal is!

Jan 6(thur):
Received the mountaineering gear from Prasad. This is the 2nd set of equipment sent by my US RIT friends. I felt very grateful for them. I was excited at seeing the equipment and was very happy to test most of the stuff.
Peeyush and Indicus staff were equally excited at this stuff.

Jan 7(fri): I slept on terrace in tent. My days of testing the equipment have started.
Jan8(sat): Peeyush had ordered for a print on my tent.
Jan9(sun): We ordered for RIT Gutchians flag. Non my batchmates were keen on taking flags.
Jan10(Mon): I have decided to carry the Indian flag and This is my purely my personal interest. I bought US dollars for 44.40Rs. I underwent some survey before settling at this price. It was a little learning and adventure.

Jan11(Tue): I am done with most of the preps.
Jan12(wed): Not much, packed my rucksack. It’s huge. Prioritized the tiems to accommodate the space.
Will board Rajdhani at 4:55PM for Mumbai.

Subbu, Nishant, khericha please write the equipment purchase and export story!!

.... A story of friendship, Adventure and a dream!